The crowd gathered in the plaza of the fairytale village of La Alberca, a town preserved in medieval simplicity. Dancers and musicians dressed in period costumes danced and played around the 12th century stone cross in the center of the square. Visitors had traveled from far and wide to celebrate an even more ancient treasure of Spain—the iconic Spanish ham, Jamón Ibérico. This was where the first Ibérico hams to arrive in the United States were aged in the cool mountain air under the supervision of maestro de jamón Santiago Martín.
My brother, Chris, and I had arrived after a three-hour drive from Madrid, across the plains and into the hills of the region of Salamanca. We had been invited by the Martín family, owners of Jamones y Embutidos Fermín, to celebrate the 20th anniversary of their incredible achievement. This small family ham company, from a tiny village in the mountains, was the first approved by the USDA to export Ibérico ham to the U.S. We were honored to be among the first to sell their hams when they arrived in America in 2005.
We were ushered into the town’s historic theatre, where we mingled with old friends and Spanish dignitaries. Chef José Andrés was an honored guest—he is a close partner with the Martín family and played a crucial role in introducing Ibérico ham to the U.S. The front row also featured other prominent figures, including the governor of the Salamanca region, the town mayor, important financiers and many other partners who helped Fermín succeed.
I was delighted to see several old friends and fellow importers from America, including Alex from La Española in Los Angeles, Marcos and Angélica from Despaña in New York City and Ernesto from Delicias de España in Miami. All three of these family companies have championed the incredible culture and cuisine of Spain for decades.
The greatest treasure was to see the whole Martín family gathered in celebration. From this village of a little more than 1,000 people, they had conquered the U.S. market with their artisan hams and sausages. After the official event, we gathered in the garden of a local hotel, feasted on tapas and raised a glass to celebrate the event.
As the family gathered for official photos, presided over by Santiago with his impressive beard, I was delighted to see two of his little grandchildren crawling around at his feet. Would they be hushed and shooed away? Of course not! Santiago leaned down and lifted a grandson in the air, tickling him as he wiggled in his grandfather’s arms. As the festivities continued, and the adults talked with friends, family and colleagues, the kids just enjoyed themselves without much supervision.
This is a part of Spanish culture that I love the most, the sense of community and family that is at its heart. Many times, I have seen Spanish families, including grandparents, cousins and close friends, gather at a restaurant or town square to share time together. And no matter how late at night, there are always children playing and interacting with their families. Every event is an occasion to renew connections and share in the joy of life with those closest to you.
What the Martín family has accomplished is a tribute to the vibrant, resilient culture of Spain. Twenty years ago, the entire family worked together with their community to be the first to export Jamón Ibérico, the jewel of Spanish cuisine to the U.S. Every Fermín ham that we sell carries this legacy, of artisans from a tiny village in the mountains determined to share their heritage and culture with the world.
¡Enhorabuena Jamones Fermín y la familia Martín!